SLR SUSPENSION FRONT ARM ASSEMBLY
SLR SUSPENSION REAR ARM ASSEMBLY
SLR SUSPENSION AXLE ASSEMBLY
SLR SUSPENSION RAIL ASSEMBLY
Each YETI SnowMX model comes equipped with the “Reactor” rear suspension custom designed for SnowMX riding by NEXTECH, a leader in lightweight composite snowmobile rear suspensions. Utilizing a titanium front suspension arm, Fox Float 3 shocks (2016 YETI models), all titanium fasteners, injection molded rear reactor arms , 7075 anodized billet shock shafts and upper cross shafts (2016 YETI models), the Reactor soaks up everything you can throw at it through it’s 9” of rear suspension travel and 6” of front arm travel (2016 YETI models).
Some riders focus on a conversion kit with maximum suspension travel, but we at YETI SnowMX are concerned first with overall performance, agility, balance, lightweight feel and efficiency of the drives before weighing in on total suspension travel. We learned that removing 30+ pounds of un-sprung weight from the rear assembly of the YETI, significantly reduces the demand on the rear suspension.
YETI SnowMX handles on the trail like an mx bike, lean back on the big whoops and grab throttle, get on top and stay there easily, chop it for the corner, back it in the corner and grab the gas again, hold 4th or 5th gear through the corners like you would on a whooped out sand track, but it is easier. You’ll have confidence like never before, the YETI makes you faster.
Go with the RRS suspension by Raptor (optional in Canada, standard on all USA YETI’s) if you want the ultimate in long travel with it’s 21” of total travel on the YETI 129 SS. Soak up the whoops on the trail with ease, then once you get to the top, flip the POW lever on the shock, to slow down the extra travel to help you climb in the deep powder for the ultimate of both worlds, trail and powder control.
Finally, if you are into dropping big bombs, our test rider Cory Derpak, was pulling 60’ drops up in Alaska in the spring of 2014. The combination of the rear suspension and the strength of the carbon chassis, absorbs the biggest hits you could ever imagine with ease. The YETI’s natural habitat is the mountains; it is not easily intimidated.
SUSPENSION TECH TIPS
The YETI rear suspension requires no maintenance, there are no grease zerks, all shafts use plastic bushings.
The rear reactor arm coupling blocks come in two sizes to limit the front ski lift, the round couplers give the most ski lift (least coupling) and the oval ones reduce the ski lift the most ( most coupling)
The front FOX Float 3 shock should have a higher air pressure than the rear FOX Float 3 shock by at least 20 lbs of air pressure, as the front shock does most of the work.
To start setting your rear suspension for the initial ride, try 70 psi in the front rear skid shock and 35 psi in the rear ski shock. Heavier riders might want more air pressure and lighter riders less.
The FOX shocks do fluctuate in pressure due to air temperature and elevation changes, check your pressure and re-adjust as required.
Check your rear suspension bolts
SUSPENSION FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTION
Q: How does the rear suspension set up effect and strut rod adjustment effect how the ski “darts” or “grabs” in harder crusted snow conditions, or on certain trail conditions and how do I fix that?
A: We have learned that setting up the strut rod is the most important step to proper YETI handling. Adjusting the strut rod will drastically effect how your MAXKEEL SKI handles in different snow conditions, learn how to easily adjust to suit your riding style. Each full rotation of the strut rod is equal to .125” of rear suspension rail lift or drop measured at the rear shock shaft.
Each full rotation of the strut rod clockwise will raise the rear suspension rails measured at the rear lower shock shaft .125”
Each full rotation of the strut rod counterclockwise will raise the front of the suspension rails measured at the front lower shock shaft .125”
We have found the best initial YETI set up, is starting with the rear shock shaft .400” higher than the front shock shaft. This is good for all conditions and rider styles.
The front ski will “dart” or “grab” when there is too much ski pressure, or when there is too little ski pressure, the effect will feel almost the same.
Most of the time we have found that a quick adjustment on the trail of two turns in either direction makes a huge difference.
Q: My bike is pulling a big wheelie that is hard to control, how can I tame that down?
A: Changing the rear suspension coupling blocks, from the round couplers to the oval shaped couplers will reduce the front ski lift substantially. We have found that an uncontrollable wheelie can be reduced to a nice 1-2’ consistent wheelie by changing these blocks. This is especially helpful on large HP turbo bikes or in the spring snow with huge traction.
Q: I have noticed there are 3 front suspension holes for the front suspension arm, why?
A: These holes allow you to fine tune your front ski pressure for your riding style. Moving the bolt up in the suspension plate increases ski pressure, and moving the bolt down reduces the front ski pressure.
Q: I notice some “green” coloured oil coming out of the air valve on the FOX shocks, is that normal?
A: It is ok to have some “green” coloured oil coming out of the air valve on your FOX shocks, this is the assembly lube and it can come out of the air valve, that is not a problem.
Q: I notice some “red” coloured oil coming out of the air valve on the FOX shocks, is that normal?
A: If you have “red” oil coming out of the air valve, the main oil chamber of the shock is leaking it’s oil. Contact your YETI dealer to find out how to have this repaired.