Each YETI is equipped with a lightweight but very strong bike mount assembly that matches your mx bike to the YETI’s carbon chassis.  Many evolutions of design have advanced this assembly’s use and functionality. From the beginning, the YETI SnowMX team wanted to keep the chain in the most efficient shape possible, allow maximum chain adjustment and accommodate multiple gearing options, easily.

Utilizing an eccentric cam, the YETI can adjust up to 3” of chain slack. Each bike mount assembly attaches the bike mount adaptors, precision machined to each bikes unique frame and engine spacing, and accommodate a chain slider. The YETI SnowMX bike mount assembly: strong and simple to use.


When adjusting the chain tension, loosen the (6) clamping bolts 1 turn each, then the eccentric nut. There is no need to over loosen any of these bolts and nut.

A small dab of grease or anti-seize is good on the back of the eccentric nut, we have found it that the anodized aluminum nut sticks to the anodized aluminum on the bike mount plate, which causes the nut to stick sometimes. 

The eccentric nut should be tightened first after adjusting the chain, as it will lock the cam down quickly. The nut should be tight, approximately 50 ft/lbs is good.

The (3) M8 bolts into the strut block should only be tightened snug, approximately 15ft/lbs. Use the eccentric bolt to do the main clamping of the bike mount plates.


Q: What is the best way to tension the chain? And how tight should it be?

A: The chain is easily tensioned while your bike is sitting on the ground, with the FREEWHEEL kit on. Follow the procedure in the manual or watch the video on YETI maintenance. 
The chain should be snug, there are no idlers in the assembly, and the chain will stretch on the first ride or two, after that it should need little to no adjustment.

Q: I am trying to tension my chain with my bike on the stand and the eccentric bolt won’t turn.

A: The YETI chain should be tightened with the YETI and ski on the ground. When the YETI hangs off  the bike on a stand it puts pressure on the eccentric cam, and it does not move as freely as on the ground.

We have found that all bikes have a certain tolerance between the frame and the engine. In a rare occasion, when you tighten the swingarm bolt, it squeezes the bike mount plates so they don’t slide as free as designed. If you feel that your plates are not sliding easily when the YETI is on the floor, try loosening your swing arm nut and try again.

We have also machined a 12mm hex on the throttle side of the YETI eccentric bolt, that in severe cases you can have someone on the other side of the YETI adjust the eccentric cam simultaneously with you.  

Q: I cannot feel the eccentric bolt move when I tension the chain, why?

A: We have found customers can snap the eccentric bolt off with long torque bars, because they are expecting to feel the eccentric bolt move as the chain tensions. The eccentric bolt will move 1/16 of a turn when you are taking up around 1/2” of chain slack. You will hardly even feel it move and the chain will be very tight. Get used to how this works, it is a simple procedure.

Q: My chain seems to be slacking off or stretching on each ride, why?

A: Your chain will stretch the first few rides quickly, then not as much after that.

On some of the first YETI’s that we built the guys at the shop assembled the bike mount plates with too much grease behind them, this caused them to slide too much and causes the bike plates, and the eccentric cam to “slip” under bike vibration while riding.

If you find that your YETI had the chain loose too much, remove the bike mount plates and clean all the grease out from behind them, you can also pressure wash out any grease between the strut block and the tunnel plates also.

We have found that the anodized aluminum on anodized aluminum works the best to slide and hold when tightened.